How It’s Made: Episode 6 ~ Kim Walker

Turn the butt on the lathe using the butt taper bar. (figure 1)

Figure 1

The points in the butt sleeve are looking good. (figure 2)

(figure 2)

The points in the forearm also look good. (figure 3)

(figure 3)

The butt of the cue will need a weight bolt and a rubber bumper.  Drill the butt in about 6 inches with a long 5/16 drill.  (figure 4)


(figure 4)

Tap the weight bolt hole with a 3/8-16 long tap.  (figure 5)

(figure 5)

Using a boring bar we bore a recess for the rubber bumper.  The recess is .100in deep and 1 inch in diameter. (figure 6)

(figure 6)

To finish the butt end, we will chamfer the hole for the flat head weight bolt.  (figure 7)

(figure 7)

On to the joint end of the butt.  Face off the end and prepare to install the joint screw. (figure 8)

(figure 8)

Lets drill a 5/16 hole, 1  3/4 inch deep.  We will use a 3 flute, solid carbide drill so it won’t flex or walk off following the grain.  (figure 9)

(figure 9)

Tap the hole with a 3/8-10 tap. (figure 10)

(figure 10)

Glue in the G10 pin and hold it straight with the tail stock. (figure 11)

(figure 11)

Lets finish the cue and buff it until it’s smooth and shiny.  I used a water based urethane on this cue but at the present time, I use Solarez UV finish.  (Figure 12)

(Figure 12)

Now let’s work on the shafts.  Turn the joint end of the shaft for the collar and the rings. (figure 13)

(figure 13)

Drill out the phenolic insert that was glued in previously.  I use a 5/16, 3 flute, solid carbide drill.  (figure 14)

(figure 14)

Next we tap the hole in the shaft for the 3/8-10 thread.  (figure 15)

(figure 15)

Turn the shaft to 12.75mm at the tip using the shaft taper bar. Then install a ferrule and tip.  (figure 16)

figure 16)

Last of all we whip up some custom matching joint protectors using the leftover ebony point squares. (figure 17)

(figure 17)

The finished product…..   (figure 18) and (figure 19) and (figure 20)

(figure 18)

(figure 19)

(figure 20)


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